Up Helly Aa: Shetland’s Fiery Winter Spectacle

Tucked away at the northernmost tip of the British Isles, the Shetland Islands are famous for their dramatic coastlines, rich Norse heritage, and one incredible winter tradition: Up Helly Aa. This fiery festival, held annually during the darkest months, is a celebration of Shetland’s Viking roots and an experience like no other.

At the weekend, I finally had the chance to witness the magic of Up Helly Aa in Scalloway, Shetland’s ancient capital. After braving the winter weather and embarking on a whirlwind journey—including an overnight ferry and snow-dusted landscapes—we arrived just in time for the festivities.

At 7pm sharp, the torch-lit procession began. Leading the charge was the Guizer Jarl, Shetland’s Viking-in-chief for the day, dressed in full Norse regalia—helmet, shield, axe, and all. Alongside the Jarl was the Jarl Squad, a band of equally fierce Vikings, who marched proudly through the streets, singing and carrying flaming torches. The atmosphere was electric, a fiery spectacle that truly brought Shetland’s history to life.

The grand finale was the dramatic burning of the Viking galley at the harbour. Watching the flames roar into the night sky, surrounded by the cheers of onlookers and the smell of smoke in the crisp winter air, was an unforgettable experience. Fireworks lit up the snowy hillsides, adding a final touch of magic to an already extraordinary night.

While the largest Up Helly Aa takes place in Lerwick, Scalloway’s more intimate festival offers a unique opportunity to get up close to the action and immerse yourself in Shetland’s welcoming community spirit.